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Ruff, Gorgera, Spanish Collar

Western, Central, Northern Europe fashion popular from the mid-16th century to the mid-17th century.Created by: PICRYL - Public Domain Media Search EngineDated: 1650
Château de Bussy-Rabutin - Gabrielle d'Estrées, duchesse de Beaufort (bgw19 0355) (cropped)FXD
Spanish collar, ruff or gorgera first appeared about 1560, and was at first open at the neck. After 1570 it becomes closed. It was gradually increasing in diameter reaching 25-30 cm, and by the 1580s the collar became known as the “millstone” or “cartwheel” which required a supporting frame. The collar was made from layers of plaited linen or lace. The Dutchwoman Dangen van Pless at the court of the English Queen Elizabeth I introduced starch that was initially yellowish, which made the collars creamy. Some tinted them with saffron in a golden hue and dyed them with natural dyes in pink or lilac colors.

The rigidity of gorgera forced its owner to keep his posture, and for his impracticality, ruff became a symbol of wealth and status and contributed to the spread of the fork, the use of which made it possible to protect the collar from soiling with food.

Gorgers were banned in Spain by King Philip IV. Spain was involved in endless wars against the growing Protestant world and in desperate need for cash. Philip announced an austerity program, condemned extravagance, and introduced the concept of simple, pragmatic living.

Forcing people to live pragmatically was fairly difficult. Eventually, the inquisition found a way - it banned the ruffed collars and starch, as a "tool of the devil". Alquacils, inquisition enforcers of justice, were armed with scissors and prowled the streets of Madrid enforcing the ban. Shops were raided and gorgera merchandise burned.

By the middle of the 17th century, ruff had decreased in diameter and almost did not use starch. The fashion lingered longer in the Dutch Republic, where ruffs can be seen in portraits well into the seventeenth century. In Germany and Flanders, ruff was worn until the beginning of the 18th century. In the 18th century, it remained for a long time among the Jews as an obligatory part of the costume.
5,301 Media in collectionpage 1 of 54
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Public domain reproduction of artwork, 16th-17th century, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description.

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Henry Hastings, 3rd Earl of Huntingdon from NPG

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Tycho Brahe 1
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Public domain scan of portrait art print, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description

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a large round collar of pleated muslin or linen worn by men and women of the late 16th and early 17th centuries

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Public domain reproduction of artwork, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description

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Public domain photo of man portrait art print, 17th century, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description.

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Public domain photo of portrait art painting, 15th-16th century, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description

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Public domain image - 17th-century female portrait, aristocracy, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description.

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Public domain image of portrait painting, 16th-17th century, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description

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Northern Netherlands Portrait of a woman in a ruff collar 01

Portrait of a Woman Public domain photograph of female portrait, 17th century, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description

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Northern Netherlands Portrait of a woman in a ruff collar

Portrait of a Woman Public domain photograph of 17th-century portrait painting, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description

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Public domain photo of portrait art painting, 18th century, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description.

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Public domain image - 16th-century female portrait, aristocracy, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description.

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Public domain image of portrait painting, 17th century, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description

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Public domain image of portrait painting, 16th-17th century, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description

John Bettes the Younger Elizabeth I Hever Castle

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Depicted person: Public domain photograph of 16th-century portrait painting, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description

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Cornelis Engelsz - Portret van Floris van Schoterbosch

Public domain photogrpah of 17th-century portrait painting, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description

Federico Barocci - Portrait of a Young Woman - WGA1295

Federico Barocci - Portrait of a Young Woman - WGA1295

Public domain photo of an Italian art painting, 16th-17th century, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description.

Frans Hals - portrait of a 52-year-old man with ruff collar holding a hat

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Portrait of a standing man holding a hat) Public domain photograph of 17th-century painting, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description

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Public domain photo of portrait art painting, 17th century, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description.

Michel de Montaigne - Public domain portrait painting
Bertall - MarivauxArlequinPolishedLov

Bertall - MarivauxArlequinPolishedLov

Arlequin Polished by Love (1720) by Pierre de Marivaux (1688-1763)

Mary Beaton - Public domain portrait painting

Mary Beaton - Public domain portrait painting

Mary Beaton (1543–1598) Public domain photograph of renaissance portrait painting, 16th century, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description

SAND Maurice Masques et bouffons 04

SAND Maurice Masques et bouffons 04

Dr Balanzone year 1653 Italiano: Dottor Balanzone anno 1653 Public domain photograph of portrait painting, 18th century, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description

Frans Hals - Portrait of a Man, Gotha

Frans Hals - Portrait of a Man, Gotha

Portrait of a man, recovered from 1979 art theft in 2020 Portrait of a young man

Portrait - Sover, Bartholomäus, scientist

Portrait - Sover, Bartholomäus, scientist

Public domain reproduction of portrait art print, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description

Portrait - Snellius, Willebrord, scientist

Portrait - Snellius, Willebrord, scientist

Public domain scan of portrait art print, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description

Portret van Isabella van Spanje, landvoogdes van de Zuidelijke Nederlanden

Portret van Isabella van Spanje, landvoogdes van de Zuidelijke Nederla...

Portret van Isabella van Spanje, landvoogdes van de Zuidelijke Nederlanden, in ovaal met randschrift.

Portret van Ogier Ghislain de Busbecq

Portret van Ogier Ghislain de Busbecq

Public domain scan of portrait art print, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description

Portret van Elizabeth I Tudor, koningin van Engeland

Portret van Elizabeth I Tudor, koningin van Engeland

Public domain image, 18th-century female portrait, aristocracy, free to use, no copyright restrictions - Picryl description

Picryl description: Public domain image of portrait, 18th century print, free to use, no copyright restrictions

Picryl description: Public domain image of portrait, 18th century prin...

Public domain image of portrait, 17th century print, free to use, no copyright restrictions - Picryl description image - Picryl description

Oettingen in Öttingen, Gottfried Graf zu

Oettingen in Öttingen, Gottfried Graf zu

Public domain photo of man portrait art print, 17th century, free to use, no copyright restrictions image - Picryl description.

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